Minneapolis Metro · Licensed Master Plumber
Toilet Repair &
Replacement
Running toilets, leaks at the base, full tank rebuilds, and new installs — done right the first time.
Request ServiceA running toilet can waste 200+ gallons of water per day. That's $50–$100/month straight down the drain — don't ignore it.
Common Problem
Is Your Toilet Running?
That constant hissing or phantom flushing isn't just annoying — it's your water bill climbing. Most running toilets trace back to a handful of worn parts inside the tank. The good news: it's almost always fixable without replacing the whole toilet.
What You'll Hear
A hissing sound that runs continuously, water refilling on its own hours after a flush, or a gurgling noise from the bowl are all signs the tank isn't sealing properly. Some running toilets are silent but still waste hundreds of gallons a day — add a few drops of food coloring to the tank and check if it appears in the bowl without flushing.
What's Usually Causing It
The three most common culprits are a worn flapper that no longer seals against the flush valve seat, a failing fill valve that can't shut off properly, or a float arm or cup that's set too high and sends water over the overflow tube. Less commonly, the flush valve seat itself is pitted or corroded.
Why a Flapper Alone Isn't Enough
Replacing just the flapper is the cheapest short-term fix, but if the fill valve is aging or the flush valve seat is worn, you'll be back to square one within months. A full tank rebuild addresses every component at once — parts are cheap, and labor is the same either way. We always recommend doing it right the first time.
What We Do About It
We diagnose the root cause, not just the symptom. If the toilet is worth repairing, we'll pull and replace the fill valve, flapper, flush valve, and float as a complete kit. If the porcelain itself is cracked or the toilet is 20+ years old, we'll tell you honestly whether replacement makes more sense.
Inside the Tank
Tank Components & What They Do
Every toilet tank has the same basic anatomy. Knowing what each part does helps you understand why we replace them together rather than one at a time.
Fill Valve (Ballcock)
Controls water flow into the tank after a flush. When it fails, water runs continuously or the tank won't refill. Modern fill valves are float-cup style; older toilets use a ballcock arm. Fill valves wear out and should be replaced every 5–7 years regardless of symptoms.
Flapper
The rubber seal at the bottom of the tank that lifts when you flush and drops back to hold water between flushes. Flappers harden and warp over time, especially with chloraminated water. A bad flapper is the most common cause of a running toilet — but rarely the only worn part.
Flush Valve & Seat
The flush valve is the overflow tube and seat the flapper seals against. If the seat is pitted or corroded, even a brand-new flapper won't stop the leak. In severe cases, the entire flush valve assembly needs replacement — not just the flapper sitting on top of it.
Float
Signals the fill valve to shut off when the tank reaches the correct water level. Float cups (integrated into modern fill valves) or older ball floats that ride too high cause water to spill into the overflow tube and run constantly. Adjusting or replacing the float is often part of any tank service.
Trip Lever & Chain
The handle and the chain connecting it to the flapper. A chain that's too long gets caught under the flapper; too short and the flapper won't seat. Trip levers can also corrode and break. These are included in a full rebuild kit and should be replaced at the same time.
Overflow Tube
The standpipe inside the tank that drains directly to the bowl if the water level gets too high — a safety feature to prevent overflow onto the floor. If water is constantly draining into the bowl via the overflow, the float is set too high or the fill valve has failed and needs replacement.
Full Tank Rebuild: The Right Way to Fix a Running Toilet
A flapper costs $5. A complete tank rebuild kit costs $35–$50 and includes the fill valve, flapper, flush valve seat, float, chain, and handle. The labor to swap one part is the same as replacing all of them — so there's no reason to do the job halfway.
When we rebuild a tank, every wear component comes out. You get a toilet that performs like new and won't need attention for years. Replacing just the flapper is a band-aid that often brings us back for a second service call within the year.
- New fill valve
- New flapper & seat
- New float & arm
- New trip lever & chain
- Water level re-calibrated
- Leak check before we leave
Warning Sign
Water at the Base of Your Toilet
Water pooling around the base of the toilet is not normal and should never be ignored. Here's what it usually means.
Don't Ignore This
Water at the base of a toilet is almost always one of two things: a failed wax ring or a loose toilet that's rocking. The wax ring is the seal between the toilet horn and the floor flange — over time it can flatten, crack, or shift. Every flush then pushes a small amount of sewage water out beneath the toilet.
Left untreated, this causes subfloor rot, mold growth, and damaged joists — repairs that cost thousands compared to a straightforward toilet reset. If you see moisture, discoloration, or soft flooring around the base, call us before it becomes a structural issue.
The fix is resetting the toilet: we pull it, scrape the old wax, inspect the flange, and set a new wax ring (or rubber gasket) before reinstalling and re-bolting the toilet. If the floor flange is cracked or sitting too low, we'll address that at the same time. A toilet that rocks on the floor will eventually fail its wax ring — we can shim and stabilize it before it becomes a leak.
One important note: condensation on the outside of the tank can drip to the floor and look like a base leak. Check for sweat on the tank before assuming the worst — though we're happy to diagnose it either way.
Buying Guide
Types of Toilets
If you're replacing a toilet or finishing a bathroom, here's a quick breakdown of what's available and where each type makes sense.
Two-Piece (Close-Coupled)
The most common residential toilet — a separate tank bolts to the bowl. They're affordable, easy to repair, and widely available. Tank and bowl components are accessible and replaceable individually. The connection between tank and bowl is a potential leak point over time but is an easy fix.
Best for: Most residential bathrooms, budget-conscious replacements
One-Piece
Tank and bowl are fused into a single unit. Sleeker profile, easier to clean (no crevice at the tank-to-bowl joint), and generally more durable. Cost more upfront but the same basic tank components apply. Heavier to install — plan for two people or a pro.
Best for: Master bathrooms, cleanliness-focused installs
Wall-Hung (Wall-Mounted)
Bowl mounts to the wall with a concealed in-wall tank (carrier frame). Frees up floor space, easy to clean under, and the seat height is adjustable. Requires a thicker wall cavity and a carrier frame installation. In-wall tanks are harder to service if they fail. Higher install cost but a premium look.
Best for: Modern bathrooms, small spaces, ADA-flexible height
Comfort Height (Chair Height)
Seat height of 17–19 inches versus the standard 15 inches. Easier on the knees and back — especially for taller adults or those with mobility limitations. Available in both one-piece and two-piece configurations. ADA-compliant models fall into this category.
Best for: Adults 5'8"+, aging-in-place, ADA compliance
High-Efficiency (HET) & Dual Flush
Standard toilets use 1.28 gpf (gallons per flush) or less under current federal standards. Dual-flush models offer a reduced flush (0.8 gpf) for liquid waste and a full flush for solids. WaterSense-certified models can save 13,000+ gallons per year versus older 3.5 gpf toilets. Great for water-conscious homeowners.
Best for: Replacing pre-1994 toilets, water conservation goals
Pressure-Assist
Uses compressed air to force water into the bowl with significantly more force than a gravity-fed toilet. Much less likely to clog. Common in commercial settings but available for residential use. Louder flush than gravity models. Requires a minimum supply pressure of 25 psi to operate properly.
Best for: Frequent clogs, commercial restrooms, low-flow concerns
Bidet Combo / Smart Toilet
Integrated bidet seats or full smart toilet units with heated seats, spray wands, dryers, and deodorizers. Require a GFCI-protected outlet within reach of the toilet. True smart toilets (Toto Neorest, Kohler Veil) are a premium install. Bidet seat add-ons work on most existing toilets and are a much lower-cost entry point.
Best for: Luxury bathrooms, comfort upgrades, reducing toilet paper use
What We Recommend
Brand Recommendations
Not all toilets are created equal. These are the brands we trust and see perform well in the field — across different budgets and use cases.
Premium
Toto
The gold standard in residential toilets. Japanese engineering, consistently excellent flush performance, and superior glaze quality (Cefiontect) that prevents buildup. Their Drake and Ultramax lines are workhorses — we install these regularly and rarely get callbacks. Neorest line for full smart toilet functionality.
Premium
Kohler
Wide product range from budget to luxury. The Cimarron and Highline are solid performers at a mid-range price. Kohler's Comfort Height lineup is excellent for accessibility. Their smart toilet and bidet seat options (PureWash, C3) are well-built. Parts are widely available at any supply house.
Mid-Range
American Standard
Reliable, widely available, and well-supported with parts. The Champion 4 has a 4-inch flush valve and is one of the best clog-resistant gravity toilets on the market. FloWise and ActiClean lines are solid choices for most residential applications. Good value for the money.
Mid-Range
Gerber
A contractor favorite that doesn't get enough credit. Built in North America, straightforward to install and repair, and very reliable in the field. The Viper and Maxwell lines are dependable performers. Parts are readily stocked at plumbing supply houses. Better quality than box-store brands at a similar price.
Budget / Skip
What to Avoid
Big-box store house brands (Glacier Bay, Niagara) tend to have inconsistent quality control and limited parts availability. Low-cost import brands may look fine out of the box but often develop problems within a few years. If you're spending money on installation, spend a little more on the fixture itself — it's false economy to do otherwise.
Ready to Fix That Toilet?
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